Biographical

Douglas Keith Scott, Born 29th May 1941

Began climbing at the age of 12.

1953

Black Rocks Derbyshire with Clive Smith, Terence Sterney –first leads.
Thereafter regularly walking and climbing in the Peak.

1955/6

Climbs on Ogwen cliffs Snowdonia with Mick Garside.
Climbing instructor at Whitehall Centre.

1957

South Ridge Direct Cir Mhor with Mick Garside, Gordon Mansell, Maureen and Harold Drasdo – first lead of a long mountain route.

1958

Winter circuit of Glen Nevis.
First alpine season with Wes Hayden and Geoff Stroud – glaciers/passes near BIumlisalp; Boeuf Couloir, Aig. du Peigne – attempt ended with 25m fall.
Hitch-hiked to Yugoslavia.

1959

Voie des Plaques on Dent du Requin, Gouter
Route on Mont Blacc with Des Hadlum.
Cenotaph Corner, Cemetery Gates Snowdonia with Des Hadlum.

1960

Four-day Dauphine circuit over Pic Coolidge, Dome de Neige and Barre des terms with Lyn Noble and Mark Hewlett.
Hitch-hiked to Morocco.

1961

North-East Face of Piz Badile with Des Hadlum. Guided for M.A. on eleven routes around Chamonix. Met Bonington and Whillans on Mont Blanc.

1962

East Face of Grand Capucin with Lyn Noble, first ascent of Met de Glace Face of Comes des Chamois with Ray Gillies.
Atlas Mountains, Morocco with Steve Bowes, Ray Gillies, Clive Davies and Steve Read – Toubkal, first ascent of South-East Cracks of Tadaft n’Gou Imrlay with Read, plus Volcan Siroua.

1963

Began five years of new routing on Derwent Valley limestone-best climbs: first ascent of Cataclysm, Catastrophe Grooves, Highlight, Gangue Grooves and Lone Tree Groove, all with Steve Read, and Limelight (A3) with Terry Bolger.
Comici/Dimai Tre Cime with Bill Cheverst, and other Dolomite climbs.

1964

First ascents of Grot with Patrick Harris, and and Main Overhang Direct with Ray Gillies, plus hard A4 and A3 aid climbs at Gordale Scar Yorkshire.
West Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere with Will McLaughlin.

1965

Tibesti Mountains, Chad- first expedition organised –First ascent of TarsoTierokoby West Ridge with Ray Gillies, and first ascent of the North Face with Clive Davies.

1966

First ascents of Crowbar with Bill Cheverst, and Syringe with Ray Gillies on Anglesey, but overaided.
Led schools/youth expedition on first ascent of Cilo Dag Kurdistan.

1967

Hindu Kush expedition – First ascent of South Face of Koh-i-Bandaka, alpine style with Ray Gillies, plus first winter ascent of the East Face of Koh-i-Sisgeikh, alpine style with Tony Watts.
North Face of Aig. du Plan with Bill Cheverst.
First ascent of Big Overhang (A4) Anglesey with Brian Palmer.

1968

Bonatti Pillar of Petit Dru with Dave Nicol.

1969

Three-year development of main face of Strone Ulladale Outer Hebrides: First ascent of The Scoop (A4) with Jeff Upton, Guy Lee and Mick Terry; Sidewinder (A5) with Lee, first ascent of The Nose (A5) with Lee and Dennis Hennek.
North Face Direct (Bauer/Rudolf) Cima Ovest with Upton and Ted Wells – an early ascent.

1970

Rimmon Route with Guy Lee and Ted Wells, Hoibakk’s Chimney with Terry Bolger, South-East Cracks, Adelsfjell with Wells – Romsdal.
Steck/Salathe Route on the Sentinel with Royal Robbins and Tony Willmott.
First British ascent of Salathe Wall, El Capitan with Peter Habeler
South Face of BHOS Dome with Dennis Hennek, Don Lauria and T M Herbert.

1971

Spanish Route on Tosal de Malo Pyrenees with Dave Marriot.
Baffin Island trip – First winter ascent of the East Face of Killabuk, with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood, Ray Gillies and Steve Smith, and the North Face of Breidablik with Dennis Hennek and Rob Wood.

1972

Two attempts on the South-West Face of Everest Nepal – on Herrligkoffer expedition reached 8000m and on post-monsoon Bonington expedition reached 8300m with Dougal Haston and Mick Burke.
First ascent of the East Pillar of Mount Asgard Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn and Paul Braithwaite.

1973

The Nose, El Capitan with Rick White – 65% free with aid mainly on nuts.

1974

First ascent of Changabang, India, with Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Tashi Chewang and Balwant Sandhu.
First ascent of South East Ridge of Pic Lenin Pamirs with Clive Rowland, Guy Lee and Paul Braithwaite.
South Face of Midi with Paul Braithwaite, and Couturier Couloir of Verte with large party, during winter Everest training session.

1975

Ogre Reconnaissance Pakistan with Clive Rowland, Rob Wood and Ronnie Richards.
First British ascent of Everest via the South-West Face with Dougal Haston – expedition led by Chris Bonington.
Little Wing, Yosemite – at 5. 1 0d my hardest rock lead.

1976

First alpine ascent of the South Face Diagonal of Denali Alaska with Dougal Haston.
First ascent of the South-West Buttress of Overlord, Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek.
First ascent of Diamond Lil, Long’s Peak Colorado with Dennis Hennek and Mike Covington.
First ascent of the North-East Face of Nelion and first winter ascent of the Diamond Couloir, both on Mount Kenya with Paul Braithwaite.

1977

First winter ascent of The Ogre or Baintha Brakk by the West Ridge, Pakistan, with Chris Bonington plus Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine to final tower.

1978

South-East Chimney of Mount Waddington Canada with Rob Wood, with walk-in from sea-level.
West Ridge of K2 Pakistan – Chris Bonington’s expedition curtailed after Nick Estcourt’s death.
North Ridge of Nuptse, Nepal, alpine style with Mike Covington and Joe Tasker – abandoned after heavy snow fall.

1979

First ascent of the North Ridge of Kangchenjunga, Nepal, without oxygen, but with Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman.
First ascent of the North Summit of Kusum Kangguru, Nepal, alpine style with Georges Bettembourg.
First ascent of the North Buttress of Nuptse, Nepal, with AI Rouse, Brian Hall and Georges Bettembourg, alpine style from the Western Cwm.
First winter ascent of The Smear, Skye with Jim Duff.

1980

North-East Spur of Les Droites with Adrian Burgess – third winter ascent.
Two alpine rock climbs first ascents, Darrens New Zealand with Jim Duff, Merv English and Arianne Giobellina.
West Ridge of K2 Pakistan with Pete Boardman, Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw – attempt abandoned after tactical wrangles.
South-East Ridge of Makalu, Nepal, alpine style with Georges Bettembourg and Roger Baxter-Jones – a nine-day climb. We reached 8 180m when Bettembourg became ill.
Training climbs included a variation finish, alpine style, to the Original Route on Kangchungste.

1981

First ascent of the East Pillar of Shivling, India, alpine style with Rick White, Greg Child, and Georges Bettembourg – a thirteen-day climb.
First ascent of the North Face of Peak70 1 0, Chamlang, Nepal, alpine style with Reinhold Messner, Pasang Mingma and Ang Dorje.

1982

North Face of Monte Gruetta with Roger Baxter-Jones and Alan Rouse -winter attempt.
First winter ascent, alpine style, of the South-East Face of Shishapangma with Roger Baxter-Jones and Alex MacIntyre.
First ascent of Pungpa Ri by the South-East Face, Tibet, alpine style with Roger Baxter-Jones and Alex MacIntyre.

1983

Expedition to Baltoro/K2 area Pakistan:
First ascent of Lob sang Spire by the South Pillar (A3), Pakistan, alpine style with Greg Child and Pete Thexton
Original Route on Broad Peak, alpine style with Steve Sustad
Attempt on South Pillar of K2, alpine style with Andy Parkin, Roger Baxter-Jones and Jean Afanassieff – retreated when Afanassieff became ill at 7,500m practically at the Shoulder.

1984

First ascent of Yaupa South-East (6300m) Barun Valley, Nepal, alpine style with Michael Scoot, Ang Phurba and Jean Afanassieff.
Baruntse (7,143m), Barun Valley, Nepal, alpine style with Michael Scoot, Ang Phurba and Jean Afanassieff.
First ascents of Chamlang East and Central summits by East Ridge, plus first descent via North Face, alpine style with Michael Scott, Ang Phurba and Jean Afanassieff.
South-East Ridge of Makalu, alpine style to within 100 metres of the summit at 8,370m with Steve Sustad and Jean Afanassieff.
Orion Face, the Curtain and Green Gully Ben Nevis, unroped with Jim Fullalove.

1985

First ascent of Minipin, Pakistan, alpine style with Michael Scott, Mark Miller and Alastair Reid – two-day ascent
Up to 7400m on South-West Ridge of Nanga Parbat, alpine style with Nazir Sabir, Scott and Reid, forced to retreat by illness.

1986

First ascent of South-East Face Direct on Mount Colonel Foster Canada with Greg Child and Rob Wood.
First winter ascent of Waterpipe Gully, Skye, first winter ascent of the route left of Y Gully, Applecross, the first winter ascent of Captain Patience with Seanna Bbraigh with all with Colin Downer.
South Face of Hrutsfjallstinder withSnaevarr Gudmundsson, Helgi Benediktsson, Jon Geirsson and Thorsteinn Gudjonsson, and Organ Pipes, Fallastakkanof, Iceland with Benediktsson.
First ascents on rock climbs in the Western Ghats, Ramanagram and Savandurga, India, with Sharu Prabhu, Praful Mistry, Dhiren Toolsidas, D. V. Ruckmangada Raju and K. V. Mohan.

1987

First ascents of rock climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan, with Martha Scott, Sharu Prabhu and Bernard Domenech.
East Face of K2, Pakistan, alpine style – attempt failed due to heavy snow.
North-East Ridge of Everest, Nepal, alpine style, to 8,200m with Rick Allen – attempt failed due to high winds.

1988

Ice climbs in Norway – First ascent of South Side of Hemsedal with Stein Aasheim and another; first ascent of Blomannen Face and other routes, Lyngen Peninsula with Sjur Nessaieim.
First ascent of Jitchu Drake by South Face, Bhutan, alpine style with Victor Saunders and Sharu Prabhu.
West Face of Makalu Nepal – attempt failed, bad weather.

1989

Rimo 11, East Karakoram, India reached 6,660m alpine style with Sharu Prabhu and Laurie Wood. First ascent, and in winter, of peak climbed by Steve Sustad and Nick Kekus.
Rock routes in King’s Canyon and West Cape Howe Australia with Rick White, Sharu Prabhu, Simon Yates, Rowland Tyson.

1990

First winter ascent of The Indian Arete, Latok 3, Pakistan, alpine style with Sandy Allan – 800m of TDsup.

1991

First ascent of Hanging Glacier Peak South (6294m) by the South Ridge, Kanjiroba Himal Nepal, alpine style with Sharu Prabhu and Nigel Porter -a TD mixed climb.

1992

First British ascent of Chimtarga (5482m), Fanskiye Mountains, Tadzhikistan
Mount Vinson (4897m), highest point in Antarctica
Attempt on Nanga Parbat (8125m) via Mazeno Ridge, climbed 3 Mazeno Peaks, Pt. 6880, Pt.6825 and Pt.6970
First Ascent Mt Pelagic

1993

Tierra Del Fuego
Mazeno ‘Spire’ (5600 c.a.) and Mazeno ‘West Peak’ (5700 c.a.)

1994

Climbs and explorations in Tierra del Fuego

1995

Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) by an original route, and a new route up 600m North Face V – with this he completed climbing the Seven Summits – the highest on each continent.

1998

First ascent of Chombu East (5,745m)

1999

Second ascent of Teng Kongma (6,215m), Arunchal Pradesh, via the North East ridge, 4 day alpine style with Roger Mear. First ever foreigner with Greg Child to explore the mountains of central Arunachal Pradesh after an 18 day approach through dense tropical rain forest.

2000

First ascent of Targo Ri (6572m), Tibet

2020

Doug passed away on 7th December 2020, at the age of 79.

Positions

President of Alpine Club (1999 – 2001) President Alpine Climbing Group (1976-1982). A vegetarian, 1978 – 2005. Hon. M.A. Nottingham 1991. Hon. M.A. Loughborough University 1993. Hon. M.Ed. Nottingham Trent University 1995. Vice-President British Mountaineering Council 1994. CBE 1994. John Muir Lifetime Achievement Award March 2006.

Publications

Big Wall Climbing, 1974; (with Alex MacIntyre) Shishapangma, Tibet, 1984; Himalayan Climber 1992; contributor to Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal and Mountain Magazine, Himal Magazine

Recreations

Rock climbing, organic gardening.

Clubs

Alpine Club, Alpine Climbing Group, Nottingham Climbing Club.