Doug Scott CBE has made 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia.  He has reached the summit of 40 peaks, of which half were first ascents, and all were climbed by new routes or for the first time in Alpine Style.  Apart from his climb up the South West Face of Everest with Dougal Haston during Chris Bonington's Expedition of 1975, he has made all his climbs in lightweight or Alpine Style, without the use of artificial oxygen.  He has reached the highest peaks on all seven continents - "the seven summits". He is a past President of the Alpine Club.  He was made a CBE in 1994. In 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron’s Gold Medal.

Main Events:  The main events of his climbing career are:

1.   The climbing of Everest by the South West Face with Dougal Haston.

2.   Surviving the breaking of two legs near the summit of the Ogre (24,000 ft) and the 8 day descent to base camp.

3.   Making the first ascent of Kangchenjunga from the North West with Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker – in light weight style and without oxygen.  This was the first time one of the big mountains had been climbed with such minimal support and without oxygen being available for climbing.

Photography:  He sells his photographs to magazines and mountaineering publications.  He also uses them to illustrate his mountaineering presentations.  More of his photographs have been on the front cover of mountain books than those of any other photographer.  His work appears in his own book ‘Himalayan Climber – A photographic autobiography’.

** NEWSFLASH **
Please click here for details of our event at Rheghed, Penrith in October 2007

SCOTT,  DOUGLAS KEITH (DOUG SCOTT)    DATE OF BIRTH:   29 May 1941

Began climbing age of 12, British crag climbing, and most weekends thereafter; visited the Alps age of 17 and most years thereafter.

The following is the history of Doug Scott's climbing:

1965: first ascent Tarso Teiroko, Tibesti Mountains. Sahara
1966: first ascents, Cilo Dag Mountains, SE Turkey,
1967: first ascent south face Koh-i-Bandaka (6837m), Hindu Kush, Afghanistan,
1971: first British ascent, Salathe Wall, El Capitain, Yosemite,
1972: Spring, member of European Mount Everest Expedition to SW face;  Summer, first ascent, East Pillar of Mount Asgard, Baffin Island Expedition:  Autumn, member of British Mount Everest Expedition to SW face;
1974: first ascent, Changabang (6864m), first ascent SE spur, Pic Lenin (7189m),
1975: Reached summit of Mount Everest, via SW face, with Dougal Haston as members, British Everest Expedition, 24 September 1975 (first Britons on summit); first Alpine ascent of south face, Mount McKinley (6226m), via new route, British Direct, with Dougal Haston
1976: first ascent, East Face Direct, Mount Kenya,
1976: first ascent, Ogre (7330m), Karakoram Mountains,
1977: first ascent North Ridge route, Kangchenjunga (8593m) without oxygen,
1979: first ascent, North Summit, Kussum Kangguru,
1979: first ascent, North face, Nuptse,
1979: Alpine style, Kangchungste (7640m),
1980: first ascent Shivling East Pillar, 13-day Alpine style push,
1981: Chamlang (7366m) North Face to Central Summit, with Rheinhold Messner,
1981: first ascent, Pungpa Ri (7445m),
1982: first ascent Shishapangma South Face (8046m),
1982: first ascent Lobsang Spire (Karakoram) and ascent Broad Peak (8047m),
1983: Mount Baruntse (7143m), first ascent East Summit Mount Chamlang (7287m) and traverse over unclimbed central summit Chamlang, Makalu South East Ridge, Alpine style, to within 100 metres of summit,
1984: first Alpine style ascent, Diran (7260m),
1985: first ascent of rock climbs in Southern India
1986: first ascent of rock climbs, Wadi Rum, Jordan,
1987: Mount Jitchu Drake (Bhutan) (6793m), South face first ascent of peak, Alpine style,
1988: first ascent, Indian Arete, Latok III,
1990: first ascent, Hanging Glacier Peak South (6294m), via South Ridge,
1992: First British ascent of Chimtarga (5482m), Fanskiye Mountains, Tadzhikistan; 
1992: climbed Mount Vinson (4897m), highest point in Antarctica; 
1992: attempt on Nanga Parbat (8125m) via Mazeno Ridge, climbed 3 Mazeno Peaks,
1993: Pt. 6880, Pt.6825 and Pt.6970; First Ascent Mt Pelagic; Tierra Del Fuego Dec.1993;
1993: climbed Mazeno 'Spire' (5600 c.a.) and Mazeno 'West Peak' (5700 c.a.), climbs and explorations in Tierra del Fuego, December
1994: Carstensz Pyramid (4884m) original route and new route up 600m North Face V (1995) with this climb he completed climbing the Seven Summits - the highest on each continent. 
1996: Sikkim first ascent Chombu East (5745m)
1998: Teng Kongma (6215m) North East ridge second ascent. 
1999: First ascent Drohmo Central summit (6855m) via South pillar, 4 days alpine style with Roger Mear.     Arunachal Pradesh - September/November 1999.  
2000: First ever foreigner (with Greg Child) to explore the mountains of central Arunachal Pradesh after an 18 day approach through dense tropical rain forest.  Central Tibet – October 2000 First ascent of Targo Ri (6572m)

President of Alpine Club (1999 - 2001)  President Alpine Climbing Group (1976-1982). 1978-.  Hon. M.A. Nottingham  1991.  Hon. M.A. Loughborough University 1993.  Hon. M.Ed. Nottingham Trent University 1995.  Vice-President British Mountaineering Council 1994-7.  C.B.E. 1994.

Publications: Big Wall Climbing, 1974; (with Alex MacIntyre) Shishapangma, Tibet, 1984; Himalayan Climber,1992  contributor to Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal and Mountain Magazine, Himal Magazine, Alpinist

Recreations: Rock climbing, organic gardening.

Clubs: Alpine, Alpine Climbing Group, Nottingham Climbers.